The Modest Izakaya Elevates Its Game in Los Angeles

A variety of new eateries are offering innovative twists on classic Japanese izakaya dishes.

Tsukune has been a daily special at Echo Park’s Budonoki.

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Tsukune has been featured as a daily special at Budonoki in Echo Park. Photo by My-Hanh Lac @myheezy/Instagram/Courtesy of Budonoki.

Recently, Los Angeles experienced a wave of trendy tapas bars, followed by a phase of gentrified gastropubs. Now, the city seems to be entering a vibrant new era of izakayas. These modern interpretations of the classic Japanese drinking establishment continue to focus on small, shareable plates, but with a refreshingly bold twist.

A few years back, Echo Park's Tsubaki (1356 Allison Ave.) emerged as a popular spot. It's now a bustling hub not only for its yakitori and yaki-onigiri but also for quintessential Angeleno dishes such as a Caesar salad adorned with panko breadcrumbs and a rich miso parmesan dressing, along with “latkes” garnished with dry-aged Ora King salmon, pickled vegetables, and yuzu scallion crème fraîche.

Since this fall, Dan Rabilwongse, a Thai chef who’d worked at Tsubaki, has been operating the nearby, high-energy Budonoki (654 Virgil Ave.), whose neo-noir interiors are out of a Nicolas Winding Refn production. His menu runs from a charred Japanese sweet potato covered in miso butter to a rendition of gnocchi studded with Shimeji mushrooms.

Across town, in Venice, the previously Med-minded Gran Blanco (80 Windward Ave.) suddenly pivoted toward Shinjuku’s Golden Gai, turning out chicken katsu sandwiches and fries featuring furikake salt. Meanwhile, down the road, chef Travis Lett — famed for Gjelina and Gjusta — has resuscitated his long-shuttered MTN into RVR (1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd.), a contempo-izakaya that sources its squid from Monterey and its Peads & Barnetts pork belly from San Diego County.

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Rokusho on Sunset Boulevard serves as the Hollywood branch of a pub originally located in Tokyo. Image provided by Subject.

One of the latest additions to the culinary scene is Rokusho (6630 Sunset Blvd.), a renowned Tokyo import that embodies a moody Brutalist aesthetic. This unique venue embraces local ingredients and presents unconventional dishes, such as uni tostadas and kombucha tempura, which are served with a truffle-honey glaze instead of the traditional soy sauce. Executive chef Carlos Couts, a Los Angeles native, prefers to steer clear of the izakaya label. “It limits the expectations around both the cooking and the service,” he explains. “We are taking Japanese culinary traditions and reimagining them to suit Californian tastes.”